{"id":7512,"date":"2016-01-29T11:53:09","date_gmt":"2016-01-29T10:53:09","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/?p=7512"},"modified":"2016-01-29T11:53:09","modified_gmt":"2016-01-29T10:53:09","slug":"etnografi-veshja-popullore-e-krajes","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/?p=7512","title":{"rendered":"Etnografi – Veshja popullore e Kraj\u00ebs"},"content":{"rendered":"
\"veshja-popullore-e-krajes-1\"<\/a>
Ilustrim<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Shkruan Ali Gje\u00e7britaj<\/p>\n

Nj\u00eb nga aspektet e r\u00ebnd\u00ebsishme t\u00eb m\u00ebnyr\u00ebs s\u00eb jetes\u00ebs jan\u00eb veshjet popullore t\u00eb cilat me larmin\u00eb dhe variantet e tyre pasurojn\u00eb trash\u00ebgimin\u00eb kulturore shqiptare. Kjo \u00ebsht\u00eb simbolik\u00eb e ve\u00e7ant\u00eb q\u00eb dallohet me tiparet e ve\u00e7anta. N\u00eb Kraj\u00eb bie fjala jan\u00eb dalluese veshja e An\u00ebs s\u00eb Sip\u00ebrme dhe e An\u00ebs s\u00eb Poshtme. Emblem\u00eb e t\u00eb pares s\u2019ka dyshim se \u00ebsht\u00eb veshja e Shestani, veshja e grave. Karakteristik\u00eb, n\u00eb t\u00eb dy an\u00ebt \u00ebsht\u00eb, edhe pse Kraja \u00ebsht\u00eb zone e that\u00eb, pa uj\u00eb t\u00eb gjall\u00eb, veshja e gruas kranjane \u00ebsht\u00eb e bardh\u00eb, karakteristike p\u00ebr gjith\u00eb zon\u00ebn me p\u00ebrjashtim q\u00eb veshjet e nuseve jan\u00eb t\u00eb dekoruara me ngjyra t\u00eb theksuara t\u00eb ndritura. Q\u00ebllimi i k\u00ebtij shkrimi nuk ka t\u00eb b\u00ebj aspak me studim, por thjesht nj\u00eb p\u00ebrshkrim i veshjes s\u00eb gruas kranjane n\u00eb An\u00ebn e Poshtme t\u00eb saj.<\/p>\n

Ashtu si veglat e pun\u00ebs, sht\u00ebpit\u00eb e banimit, ushqimi etj. edhe veshjet konsiderohen nd\u00ebr mjetet kryesore t\u00eb jet\u00ebs s\u00eb njeriut, thot\u00eb Af\u00ebrdita Onuzi. Edhe kranjanet sipas mosh\u00ebs dhe kategoris\u00eb shoq\u00ebrore krijuan veshjen e tyre me karakteristikat dhe tiparet e saja. Kur kemi t\u00eb b\u00ebjm\u00eb me shtres\u00ebn shoq\u00ebrore, fjala \u00ebsht\u00eb k\u00ebtu vet\u00ebm p\u00ebr stolit\u00eb e gjoksit me ar e serm e jo me tipare tjera. T\u00eb gjitha veshjet e femr\u00ebs krajane kan\u00eb krijuar nj\u00eb pasuri veshjesh. Ashtu si t\u00eb gjith\u00eb shqiptar\u00ebt, edhe veshja e grave Kraj\u00ebs z\u00eb nj\u00eb vend t\u00eb posa\u00e7\u00ebm n\u00eb trash\u00ebgimin\u00eb ton\u00eb t\u00eb begat\u00eb. K\u00ebt\u00eb begati n\u00eb Kraj\u00eb, n\u00eb An\u00ebn e Poshtme t\u00eb k\u00ebsaj krahine shqiptare e populluar kryesisht me shqiptar\u00eb t\u00eb besimit islam, grat\u00eb e kan\u00eb ruajtur me fanatiz\u00ebm. Me koh\u00eb u krijua k\u00ebtu veshja popullore, e cila n\u00eb k\u00ebto an\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb ruajtur dhe trash\u00ebguar brez pas brezi nga grat\u00eb. Gj\u00eb q\u00eb p\u00ebr veshjen e burrave nuk mund t\u00eb thuhet. Shijet estetike t\u00eb p\u00ebrdorura p\u00ebr zbukurim, por edhe m\u00ebnyra e stilizimit, jan\u00eb ato q\u00eb pasqyrojn\u00eb ve\u00e7antin\u00eb etnike. I gjith\u00eb zhvillimi i veshjeve, edhe k\u00ebtu \u00ebsht\u00eb i lidhur ngusht\u00eb me historin\u00eb e zhvillimit e p\u00ebrgjithsh\u00ebm ekonomik, arsimor e kulturor tek kjo popullsi, p\u00ebr pasoj\u00eb edhe me historin\u00eb e veshjes karakteristike t\u00eb Kraj\u00ebs(fjala \u00ebsht\u00eb k\u00ebtu me disa zbukurime t\u00eb cilat kan\u00eb p\u00ebsuar disa ndryshime t\u00eb vogla e q\u00eb nuk jan\u00eb p\u00ebrdorur m\u00eb par\u00eb)<\/p>\n

N\u00eb Kraj\u00eb veshja e gruas ka tri tipare t\u00eb saj. Veshja e vajzave, veshja e nuseve dhe veshja e grave t\u00eb moshuar, plakave.<\/p>\n

Veshja e vajzave p\u00ebrb\u00ebhet nga k\u00ebmisha e qepur nga faqelli i bardh\u00eb, tpanat (brek\u00ebt, n\u00eb Kraj\u00eb p\u00ebrdoret fjala tlindat) e bardha pa dekorime n\u00eb kam\u00ebza, mang\u00ebt e bardha t\u00eb dekoruara me lule t\u00eb pakta, t\u00eb ve\u00e7anta p\u00ebr mosh\u00ebn, xhamadani nga kadifeja e zez\u00eb i dekoruar me shirit t\u00eb holl\u00eb t\u00eb bardh, bo\u00e7ja (p\u00ebrpar\u00ebsja) e lidhur n\u00eb brez me toj\u00eb p\u00ebrreth trupit. Bo\u00e7ja \u00ebsht\u00eb e bardh\u00eb, e punuar nga leshi n\u00eb tezjeh (vek\u00eb). N\u00eb brez vajzat vendosin edhe mendil n\u00eb an\u00ebn e djatht\u00eb me dekorim t\u00eb ndonj\u00eb luleje. Edhe \u00e7orap\u00ebt e vajzave jan\u00eb \u00e7orap\u00eb leshi t\u00eb bardh\u00eb. N\u00eb gjoks si dekorim vajzat vejn\u00eb po ashtu mendilin e bardh\u00eb me ndonj\u00eb lule n\u00eb krahun e djatht\u00eb. N\u00eb kok\u00eb mbajn\u00eb shami t\u00eb bardh\u00eb q\u00eb n\u00eb gjuh\u00ebn popullore i thon\u00eb degermi e bardh\u00eb, e but\u00eb. Si\u00e7 shihet, veshja e vajzave t\u00eb An\u00ebs s\u00eb Poshtme t\u00eb Kraj\u00ebs \u00ebsht\u00eb t\u00ebr\u00ebsisht e bardh\u00eb me p\u00ebrjashtim t\u00eb xhamadanit.<\/p>\n

Veshja e nuses dallon nga ajo e vajzave p\u00ebr nga ngjyrat. Me gjith\u00eb at\u00eb, edhe k\u00ebtu mbizot\u00ebron e bardha. Nusja, kuptohet ka m\u00eb shum\u00eb zbukurime n\u00eb veshje kudo nd\u00ebr shqiptar\u00ebt. Kraja s\u2019ka si t\u00eb b\u00ebj\u00eb p\u00ebrjashtim nga kjo tradit\u00eb gjith\u00eb shqiptare. Nuset n\u00eb Kraj\u00eb veshin k\u00ebmisha me nuanca t\u00eb ngjyr\u00ebs s\u00eb bardh\u00eb. Veshja e poshtme, tpanat (brek\u00ebt) po ashtu t\u00eb bardha, por kam\u00ebzat, pjesa m\u00eb e poshtme e tyre, jan\u00eb t\u00eb q\u00ebndisura me gjilp\u00ebr\u00eb, n\u00eb popull njihen me termin ura, pra tpanat me ura. N\u00eb pjes\u00ebn e m\u00eb sip\u00ebrme t\u00eb kam\u00ebzave, mbi ura, tpanat e nuseve dekorohen edhe me q\u00ebndisje n\u00eb gjergjef. K\u00ebshtu si rrjedhoj\u00eb del se dekorimi i kam\u00ebzave t\u00eb tpanave jan\u00eb t\u00eb stolisura me dy zbukurime q\u00ebndisjeje, me grep dhe n\u00eb gjergjef. Setra e nuseve paraqet karakteristik\u00eb t\u00eb ve\u00e7ant\u00eb p\u00ebr k\u00ebt\u00eb kategori t\u00eb veshjeve s\u00eb nuses kranjane. Setra \u00ebsht\u00eb nga kadifeja e zez\u00eb e sh\u00ebndritshme me jaka jeshile ose t\u00eb kalt\u00ebrta. Jakat sikur edhe mang\u00ebt e setr\u00ebs jan\u00eb t\u00eb dekoruara me shirit t\u00eb bardh\u00eb. Edhe pjes\u00ebt e poshtme t\u00eb dor\u00ebzave t\u00eb setr\u00ebs jan\u00eb me ngjyr\u00eb t\u00eb jakave. Hasen k\u00ebtu edhe shirita ngjyr\u00ebs s\u00eb verdh\u00eb t\u00eb hapur. E gjith\u00eb setra e nuses \u00ebsht\u00eb e qepur dhe e therur me tegela t\u00eb shpesht\u00eb. N\u00ebn set\u00ebr, nusja vesh xhamadanin e nuses i cili \u00ebsht\u00eb nga kadifeja e zez\u00eb. Xhamadani q\u00ebndiset me tertil, stolisur me shirit me ngjyr\u00eb t\u00eb theksuar q\u00eb i shkon p\u00ebr shtati nuses. Stolisja e kok\u00ebs s\u00eb nuses nis\u00eb me kav\u00ebrxhikun i cili \u00ebsht\u00eb nga m\u00ebndafshi i kuq, me dekorime t\u00eb lloj\u00eb-lloj\u00ebshme dhe me thak\u00eb e q\u00eb l\u00ebshohet posht\u00eb shpin\u00ebs si stoli. Kav\u00ebrxhiku ka edhe kapu\u00e7in i cili vendoset n\u00eb kok\u00eb dhe \u00ebsht\u00eb me ngjyr\u00eb roz\u00eb. Urat e tij jan\u00eb t\u00eb q\u00ebndisura me fije t\u00eb arit. Krahas kav\u00ebrxhikut, stoli e shpin\u00ebs s\u00eb nuseve jan\u00eb edhe kurdelet, t\u00eb cilat kan\u00eb ngjyra t\u00eb larmishme t\u00eb hapura, ku mbizot\u00ebrojn\u00eb roza, e kuqja, jeshilja dhe e kalt\u00ebrta e hapur etj. Mbi kav\u00ebrxhik nusja vendos\u00eb degermin\u00eb e bardh\u00eb nga m\u00ebndafshi. Nusja poashtu vesh\u00eb mang\u00ebt me ngjyr\u00eb t\u00eb bardh\u00eb t\u00eb dekoruara me ngjyra t\u00eb larmishme t\u00eb hapura. Mbizot\u00ebron kryesisht dekorimi me ngjyr\u00eb roz\u00eb dhe q\u00ebndisja me tegela jeshil. Pjes\u00eb e veshjes s\u00eb nuses, sikur edhe te vajzat, \u00ebsht\u00eb edhe bo\u00e7ja, e cila vihet n\u00eb brez dhe lidhet n\u00eb ije, me toj\u00eb me ngjyr\u00eb t\u00eb hapur. Bo\u00e7ja e nuses \u00ebsht\u00eb me ngjyra t\u00eb hapura ku mbizot\u00ebrojn\u00eb e kuqja, roza, ngjyra vjollc\u00eb dhe ngjyra tjera t\u00eb hapura. Bo\u00e7ja e nuses stoliset me fije ari. Ngjyrat e bo\u00e7es q\u00ebndrojn\u00eb n\u00eb pozit\u00ebn vertikale dhe jan\u00eb paralele. Stolit e brezit t\u00eb nuseve jan\u00eb edhe \u00e7evret, (lloj\u00eb shamie k\u00ebto t\u00eb q\u00ebndisura) n\u00eb k\u00ebnde (qoshe). Ngjyrat e \u00e7evres kryesisht jan\u00eb roz\u00eb, nd\u00ebrsa mendili dekorues i brezit ka ngjyr\u00ebn jeshile i q\u00ebndisur n\u00eb skaj. Dekorim i posa\u00e7\u00ebm n\u00eb veshjen e nuses \u00ebsht\u00eb hajmalia. Ajo \u00ebsht\u00eb e dekoruar me pes\u00eb ose shtat\u00eb grashatar\u00eb (n\u00eb form\u00eb monedhe argjendi t\u00eb vogla) dhe e lidhur me qestek\u00eb nga sermi (argjendi). Nuset i varin hajmalit\u00eb me qestek\u00eb n\u00eb an\u00ebn e majt\u00eb n\u00eb qosh t\u00eb xhamadanit. Hajmalit\u00eb has\u00ebn edhe n\u00eb veshjen e nuses \u00e7ame. Zbukurim tjet\u00ebr tek veshja e nuses \u00ebsht\u00eb edhe bazibeni, luan rolin e hajmalis\u00eb por nuk e ka form\u00ebn e saj. Nuset zakonisht veshin \u00e7orape leshi me ngjyra t\u00eb hapura t\u00eb q\u00ebndisura me lule n\u00eb maje t\u00eb gisht\u00ebrinjve. \u00c7orap\u00ebt jan\u00eb punuar nga leshi i but\u00eb me k\u00ebrrab\u00ebza. Zat\u00ebn, edhe nj\u00eb k\u00ebng\u00eb e vjet\u00ebr popullore nd\u00ebr t\u00eb tjera thot\u00eb: Ban \u00e7arap pak me vrap, nji syze, nji sahat, mu sjell\u00eb njer gjasht\u00eb sahat, mi marue nji mat-mat(nj\u00eb mot-mot). Pjes\u00eb e veshjes dekorative e fytit t\u00eb nuseve kan\u00eb qen\u00eb edhe gjerdan\u00ebt me rruaza.
\nEdhe veshja e grave t\u00eb moshuara, e njohur si veshje e plakave p\u00ebrb\u00ebhet nga ngjyra e bardh\u00eb. Tlindat jan\u00eb t\u00eb bardha. Grat\u00eb plaka q\u00eb nuk jan\u00eb vejusha kam\u00ebzat e brek\u00ebve i kan\u00eb t\u00eb dekoruara me ura, nd\u00ebrsa vejushat jo. K\u00ebmisha nga pelhura dhe degermia (shamia e kok\u00ebs) jan\u00eb t\u00eb bardha. Setra e zez\u00eb e thethur me tegela por pa zbukurime. Jakat dhe dorezat me shirit t\u00eb bardh\u00eb t\u00eb holl\u00eb, m\u00eb t\u00eb holl\u00eb se tek setra e nuses. Plaka vesh n\u00ebn set\u00ebr xhamadan t\u00eb zi me shirit t\u00eb verdh\u00eb. Bo\u00e7ja e plakes \u00ebsht\u00eb e bardh\u00eb nga pambuku, nd\u00ebrsa si dekorim plakat n\u00eb brez vendosin toj\u00ebn e brezit nj\u00eb m\u00ebndil t\u00eb thjesht\u00eb t\u00eb bardh\u00eb. Mang\u00ebt e anteris\u00eb s\u00eb plak\u00ebs jan\u00eb ngjyr\u00eb misri me dekorime t\u00eb pakta jo t\u00eb theksuara. Plaka p\u00ebrdor \u00e7orape t\u00eb zinj leshi.<\/p>\n

I gjith\u00eb ky bagazh etnografik veshjes s\u00eb grave n\u00eb An\u00ebn e poshtme t\u00eb Kraj\u00ebs \u00ebsht\u00eb punuar n\u00eb tezjeh (vek\u00eb). Karakteristik\u00eb e k\u00ebsaj veshje n\u00eb t\u00eb tri moshat \u00ebsht\u00eb se mbizot\u00ebron veshja e bardh\u00eb e trash\u00ebguar nga Iliria e lasht\u00eb, nga fisi ilir Labeat q\u00eb ka populluar basenin e liqenit t\u00eb Shkodr\u00ebs. Duket qart\u00eb se pasardh\u00ebsit e k\u00ebtij fisi t\u00eb lasht\u00eb ilir jan\u00eb edhe kranjan\u00ebt. K\u00ebt\u00eb e d\u00ebshmojn\u00eb n\u00eb Kraj\u00eb, jo vet\u00ebm veshja e bardh\u00eb edhe n\u00eb morte, por edhe simboli i gjarprit i skalitur n\u00eb gur\u00ebt e sht\u00ebpive n\u00eb disa vendbanime t\u00eb Kraj\u00ebs, si n\u00eb An\u00ebn e Sip\u00ebrme ashtu edhe n\u00eb An\u00ebn e Poshtme. Ora e sht\u00ebpis\u00eb (gjarpri), ngjyra e bardh\u00eb e veshjes, m\u00ebnyra e mbulimit t\u00eb kok\u00ebs me shami, si dhe shum\u00eb karakteristika tjera jan\u00eb d\u00ebshmi e pamohueshme s\u00eb kjo trev\u00eb \u00ebsht\u00eb iliro\u2013shqiptare.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Shkruan Ali Gje\u00e7britaj Nj\u00eb nga aspektet e r\u00ebnd\u00ebsishme t\u00eb m\u00ebnyr\u00ebs s\u00eb jetes\u00ebs jan\u00eb veshjet popullore t\u00eb cilat me larmin\u00eb dhe variantet e tyre pasurojn\u00eb trash\u00ebgimin\u00eb kulturore shqiptare. Kjo \u00ebsht\u00eb simbolik\u00eb e ve\u00e7ant\u00eb q\u00eb dallohet me tiparet e ve\u00e7anta. N\u00eb Kraj\u00eb bie fjala jan\u00eb dalluese veshja e An\u00ebs s\u00eb Sip\u00ebrme dhe e An\u00ebs s\u00eb Poshtme. Emblem\u00eb […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":7513,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"","_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[2,6],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-7512","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-aktualitet","category-kulture"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7512","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=7512"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7512\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":7515,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/7512\/revisions\/7515"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/7513"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=7512"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=7512"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=7512"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}