{"id":5109,"date":"2015-08-10T09:00:41","date_gmt":"2015-08-10T07:00:41","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/?p=5109"},"modified":"2015-08-10T09:12:31","modified_gmt":"2015-08-10T07:12:31","slug":"vizotn-camerine-kujton-ulqinin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/?p=5109","title":{"rendered":"Viziton \u00c7am\u00ebrin\u00eb, kujton Ulqinin"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Arben-kondi\"<\/a>Vizit\u00eb n\u00eb \u00c7am\u00ebri<\/strong><\/p>\n

(Atje ku shqipja nuk shuhet kurr\u00eb)<\/em><\/p>\n

Shkruan Arben Kondi<\/p>\n

Jav\u00ebn e shkuar, nj\u00eb telefonat\u00eb-ftes\u00eb nga Saranda prej Halides e Rexhepit, miqve tan\u00eb nga Gostivari, q\u00eb pushonin brigjeve t\u00eb Jonit b\u00ebri q\u00eb pas plot 15 vitesh t\u00eb rikthehesha tok me gruan time Mirel\u00ebn n\u00eb \u00c7am\u00ebrin\u00eb martire. Vizita e par\u00eb qe arkivuar dhimbsh\u00ebm n\u00eb shpirtin tim. Si maja e nj\u00eb thike t\u00eb mpreht\u00eb m\u00eb kishte shkar\u00eb mbi cip\u00ebz\u00ebn e zemr\u00ebs. M\u00eb kishte p\u00ebrgjakur thell\u00eb. \u00c7am\u00ebria l\u00ebngonte. Mbetej plaga e hapur, plaga q\u00eb ende rridhte gjak prej shtatit t\u00eb kombit shqiptar. Me kriminel\u00eb mbi t\u00eb, pa mjek\u00eb mbi kok\u00eb. Me ca politikan\u00eb sharlatan\u00eb q\u00eb jo vet\u00ebm nuk u interesuan kurr\u00eb seriozosht p\u00ebr t\u00eb, por q\u00eb me dor\u00ebn tek xhepi e jo me gishtin n\u00eb kok\u00eb po i krijonin hap\u00ebsir\u00eb t\u00eb re shovinizmit grek p\u00ebrgjat\u00eb jugut t\u00eb Shqip\u00ebris\u00eb. K\u00ebshtu q\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb vizit\u00eb e prisja me ankth. Doja ta shihja, ta prekja me syt\u00eb e zemr\u00ebs vendin e origjin\u00ebs sime. V\u00ebrtet ajo qe \u00e7\u2019b\u00ebr\u00eb, kishte dh\u00ebn\u00eb frym\u00ebn e fundit dhe nuk egzistonte as si nocion gjeografik si\u00e7 shprehet deri n\u00eb parlamentin shqiptar ndonj\u00eb goj\u00eb apo shpirt i lig, i zi?! Po gjuha \u00e7ame, ajo thesprotishtja e vjet\u00ebr q\u00eb Arestidh Kolja, arvanitasi i madh e konsideronte si gjuh\u00eb t\u00eb Homerit, si gjuh\u00eb per\u00ebndish a egzistonte vall\u00eb?! Apo edhe ajo duke mos e pasur t\u00eb drejt\u00ebn t\u00eb m\u00ebsohej n\u00eb shkolla e t\u00eb ushtrohej n\u00ebp\u00ebr kisha kishte dh\u00ebn\u00eb shpirt?! Nd\u00ebrkoh\u00eb q\u00eb minoriteti grek n\u00eb Shqip\u00ebri g\u00ebzon t\u00eb drejta t\u00eb tilla, t\u00eb cilat arrin\u00eb deri atje saq\u00eb edhe nj\u00eb f\u00ebmij\u00eb i vet\u00ebm grek duhet t\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb patjet\u00ebr nj\u00eb m\u00ebsues t\u00eb gjuh\u00ebs greke mbi kok\u00eb… Mes k\u00ebtij trishti kaluam dogan\u00ebn shqiptare t\u00eb Qaf\u00eb Bot\u00ebs dhe u gjend\u00ebm para asaj greke. Si r\u00ebndom, grek\u00ebt nuk mund t\u00eb rrin\u00eb dot pa krijuar probleme. Por duke q\u00ebn\u00eb se pashaportat tona i \u00e7oi n\u00eb sportel Rexhepi me shtet\u00ebsi maqedonase, doganieri grek e la pas dore \u00c7am\u00ebrin\u00eb e u morr me Maqedonin\u00eb fqinje.<\/p>\n

– K\u00ebto pasaporta jan\u00eb fallco, fallco\u2026! – briti ai tek i vuloste ato duke shtuar rrept\u00eb e bindsh\u00ebm se Maqedonia nuk egzistonte si shtet, pasi \u00ebsht\u00eb pjes\u00eb e Greqis\u00eb.
\nRexhepi p\u00ebr t\u00eb mos krijuar probleme m\u00eb tej me t\u00eb i shkoi pas hises duke p\u00ebrs\u00ebritur buzagaz dy tri her\u00eb fjal\u00ebn \u201cfallco, fallco\u201d\u2026! Un\u00eb, s\u2019ja vura veshin shovinizmit t\u00eb marr\u00eb t\u00eb doganierit grek. Syt\u00eb i kisha mb\u00ebrthyer tek kufiri shqiptaro-shqiptar. Megalaiden\u00eb e njoh mir\u00eb. P\u00ebr fat t\u00eb keq, ajo edhe sot e k\u00ebsaj dite, k\u00ebrkon q\u00eb Greqin\u00eb e lodhur, t\u00eb sfilitur prej kriz\u00ebs s\u00eb r\u00ebnd\u00eb ekonomike ta kthej\u00eb n\u00eb kufijt\u00eb e Perandoris\u00eb Bizantine. T\u00eb heshtur u vum\u00eb n\u00eb l\u00ebvizje. Pa b\u00ebr\u00eb as pes\u00eb minuta udh\u00eb, e mug\u00ebt, e trisht\u00eb si shenja e par\u00eb e genocidit t\u00eb eg\u00ebr zervist, na u shfaq Sajadha. Plot 71 vjet m\u00eb par\u00eb, qyteza e vog\u00ebl buz\u00eb detit do sh\u00ebnonte epilogun ngjeth\u00ebs t\u00eb dram\u00ebs \u00e7ame brenda kufirit shtet\u00ebror grek. Pak m\u00eb tutje, n\u00eb t\u00eb m\u00ebngj\u00ebrt, pik\u00ebrisht atje ku nj\u00eb tabel\u00eb dal\u00ebboje sh\u00ebnonte FILATES, drama \u00e7ame n\u00eb shpirtin tim do fitonte n\u00eb \u00e7ast p\u00ebrmasat e nj\u00eb tragjedie t\u00eb v\u00ebrtet\u00eb. Nuk ndihesha. M\u00eb pati ng\u00ebrthyer e shkuara. Po p\u00ebrjetoja ver\u00ebn e nxeht\u00eb t\u00eb vitit 1944, si dhe pranver\u00ebn e vitit 1945. N\u00eb at\u00eb koh\u00eb, n\u00eb Filat e rrethin\u00eb do vriteshin do priteshin nga andart\u00ebt grek\u00eb mbi 1200 njer\u00ebz t\u00eb pafajsh\u00ebm. Kjo thjesht e vet\u00ebm sepse ishin shqiptar\u00eb e nuk donin n\u00eb asnj\u00eb m\u00ebnyr\u00eb t\u00eb tjet\u00ebrsoheshin n\u00eb grek\u00eb. Aq shum\u00eb i tronditur isha saq\u00eb edhe rrug\u00ebt e Smart\u00ebs, fshatit t\u00eb par\u00eb \u00e7am pas Sajadh\u00ebs m\u2019u b\u00ebn\u00eb si t\u00eb lara me gjak.<\/p>\n

M\u00eb q\u00ebn\u00ebsuan disi stanet n\u00ebp\u00ebr faqe malesh, bag\u00ebtit\u00eb si dhe t\u00eb lehurat e qen\u00ebve mollos\u00eb q\u00eb aq shum\u00eb ngjajn\u00eb me qent\u00eb e Sharrit n\u00eb kufijt\u00eb Kosov\u00eb-Maqedoni Per\u00ebndimore. Befas, prej lart\u00ebsive porsi nj\u00eb pasqyr\u00eb e rrafsh\u00ebt shfaqet fusha dhe kurora e gjelb\u00ebrt e qytetit. Mes tyre si tufa delesh sht\u00ebpit\u00eb e bardha t\u00eb fshatrave \u00e7ame. Ja, atje sip\u00ebr, karshi me ne b\u00ebn shenj\u00eb Spatari. Lop\u00ebsi fqinj zbret disi m\u00eb posht\u00eb. Tutje n\u00eb veri, n\u00eb kufi me Shqip\u00ebrin\u00eb shfaqet Koska e famshme e Muharrem Rrushitit. Plot 101 beteja kreu atdhetari i shquar \u00e7am p\u00ebr lirin\u00eb e vatr\u00ebs s\u00eb tij amtare. Shtat\u00eb plumba, shtat\u00eb plag\u00eb mori n\u00eb trupin e tij. Koska \u00ebsht\u00eb dhimbje e gjall\u00eb, \u00ebsht\u00eb simbol i \u00c7am\u00ebris\u00eb s\u00eb sotme. Ka mbetur e t\u00ebra g\u00ebrmadh\u00eb. Me sht\u00ebpi q\u00eb ngjajn\u00eb si shk\u00ebmbinj e me shk\u00ebmbinj q\u00eb ju p\u00ebrngjajn\u00eb sht\u00ebpive t\u00eb reja. Kurse Pleshavica, vendlindja e Vasilliqis\u00eb s\u00eb Ali Pash\u00eb Tepelenes rr\u00ebzoset pothuajse ngjitur me Janjarin k\u00ebtej kufirit ton\u00eb. Ja se \u00e7\u2019thon\u00eb vargjet e popullit p\u00ebr k\u00ebt\u00eb fshat thjesht shqiptar por i ritit ortodoks: \u201cPleshavic\u00eb moj Pleshavic\u00eb\/ gjisma shqip gjisma greqisht\/ ta prish\u00ebn gluh\u00ebn skolit\u00eb.\u201d Si p\u00ebr t\u00eb leht\u00ebsuar shpirtin hedh syt\u00eb brigjeve t\u00eb Kalamait t\u00eb njohur (Thiamisit antik). Pran\u00eb tij arrij t\u00eb shquaj t\u00eb tjer\u00eb fshatra \u00e7ame si V\u00ebrsel\u00ebn, Galbaqin, Varfanjin, Dolanin, Sollopin, Picarin, etj. Tek tuk mes tyre arrij t\u00eb shquaj edhe sht\u00ebpit\u00eb e hershme t\u00eb \u00e7am\u00ebve. Si Koska g\u00ebrmadha. M\u00eb tej n\u00eb faqe kodre pran\u00eb detit shfaqet Kastria, nj\u00eb fshat shum\u00eb i bukur q\u00eb i p\u00ebrket Gumenic\u00ebs, por q\u00eb nj\u00ebsoj si motrat e tij andej kufirit (Konispoli, Shal\u00ebsi, V\u00ebrva, Dishati, Markati, Ninati, Janjari e Pandalemoni) e mollois (e flet) aq bukur gjuh\u00ebn shqipe.<\/p>\n

Filati na shkau tangent. Nuk e di p\u00ebrse na ndodhi kjo! Ndofta ngaq\u00eb takimi i par\u00eb me nj\u00eb filaqot, nuk na ngrohu fare. Ai nuk pranoi t\u00eb fliste shqip. I r\u00ebnd\u00eb, duke folur greqisht na adresoi p\u00ebr nga benzinata m\u00eb e af\u00ebrt rreth 500 metra jasht\u00eb qytetit. Makina e Rexhepit kishte nevoj\u00eb p\u00ebr karburant. Shmangia e qendr\u00ebs s\u00eb Filatit na \u00e7onte drejt udh\u00ebs s\u00eb Paramithis\u00eb. M\u00eb erdhi keq q\u00eb nuk e vizituam qytetin dhe qendr\u00ebn e tij p\u00ebr m\u00eb tep\u00ebr q\u00eb ai njihet si kryeqendra e veriut t\u00eb \u00c7am\u00ebris\u00eb dhe ka nj\u00eb histori aq t\u00eb pasur shqiptare me rr\u00ebnj\u00eb deri n\u00eb pellazgogji. P\u00ebr shembull, Elim\u00ebt antik\u00eb me nd\u00ebrtimet e tyre cikllopike kan\u00eb l\u00ebn\u00eb gjurm\u00eb t\u00eb m\u00ebdha n\u00eb Shkall\u00ebn e Zorjanit e gjetk\u00eb. Sidoqoft\u00eb, thuhet se \u00e7do e keqe e ka edhe nj\u00eb t\u00eb mir\u00eb. K\u00ebshtu ndodhi edhe me ne. V\u00ebrtet humb\u00ebm pa par\u00eb qendr\u00ebn e Filatit, por edhe fituam di\u00e7ka pasi u gjend\u00ebm n\u00eb mes t\u00eb nj\u00eb pejsazhi t\u00eb mrekulluesh\u00ebm q\u00eb lidhet mahnitsh\u00ebm me kanionet e lumit Kalama. Ve\u00e7 bukurin\u00eb tij e shoh t\u00eb dhimbshme. Sa her\u00eb gjat\u00eb shekujve, mes val\u00ebve e dallg\u00ebve t\u00eb tij historia \u00e7ame \u00ebsht\u00eb shfaqur e p\u00ebrgjakur?! M\u00eb pat\u00ebn p\u00ebrfshir\u00eb t\u00eb tilla mendime perderisa nuk arrija t\u00eb shijoja pejsazhin e qytez\u00ebs nga ku po shkonim. Por shpejt u shk\u00ebputa prej s\u00eb shkuar\u00ebs e duke i b\u00ebr\u00eb syt\u00eb kat\u00ebr u mundova t\u00eb kuptoja se ku ndodhesha. Ajo qytez\u00eb mbres\u00ebl\u00ebn\u00ebse, me at\u00eb ur\u00ebn e vjet\u00ebr, antike n\u00eb hyrje t\u00eb saj se\u00e7 po m\u00eb sillte n\u00eb m\u00ebndje. Por p\u00ebr dreq asnj\u00eb tabel\u00eb rr\u00ebfuese nuk po m\u00eb ndihmonte. Sidoqoft\u00eb, nj\u00eb ndjenj\u00eb e brendshme m\u00eb shtynte t\u00eb mendoja se gjendeshim n\u00eb Minin\u00ebn e njohur, atje ku luft\u00ebtar\u00ebt \u00e7am\u00eb derdh\u00ebn aq shum\u00eb gjak p\u00ebr t\u00eb mbrojtur \u00c7am\u00ebrin\u00eb nga bishat zerviste. Dhe v\u00ebrtet nuk kisha gabuar. N\u00eb t\u00eb dal\u00eb t\u00eb Minin\u00ebs, ose Neriad\u00ebs si\u00e7 e quajn\u00eb sot grek\u00ebt pash\u00eb nj\u00eb djal\u00eb t\u00eb rreth t\u00eb tridhjetave si dhe nj\u00eb mesogrua q\u00eb m\u00eb siguri duhet t\u00eb ishte n\u00ebna e tij. I vura dor\u00ebn mbi timon Rexhepit dhe i thash\u00eb q\u00eb ta mbante makin\u00ebn. Ai frenoi fare pran\u00eb tyre. Un\u00eb ula xhamin e dritares dhe i fola n\u00eb shqip:
\n– M\u00eb falni, \u2013 ju thash\u00eb. \u2013 Mos kjo qytez\u00eb e bukur \u00ebsht\u00eb Minina?<\/p>\n

Pas nj\u00eb p\u00ebrhumbje t\u00eb beft\u00eb dhe nj\u00eb hezitimi t\u00eb shkurt\u00ebr, n\u00ebn\u00eb e bir pohuan me z\u00eb t\u00eb ul\u00ebt n\u00eb shqip se ai vend ishte pik\u00ebrisht Minina. I falenderova p\u00ebrz\u00ebrsisht. Rexhepi u vu s\u00ebrish n\u00eb udh\u00eb. M\u2019u b\u00eb se edhe makina r\u00ebnkoi dhimbsh\u00ebm. Brenda heshtja qe e thell\u00eb. N\u00eb nj\u00eb udh\u00ebkryq pak m\u00eb tutje, atje ku u shfaq nj\u00eb tabel\u00eb me sh\u00ebnimin Paramithi, Marg\u00eblli\u00e7 e Gumenic\u00eb un\u00eb fola s\u00ebrish:
\n– Rexhep! Merr majtas! Do vemi n\u00eb Paramithi, atje ku toka \u00e7ame veson ende gjak. N\u00eb Marg\u00eblli\u00e7 e n\u00eb Gumenic\u00eb ndoshta shkojm\u00eb n\u00eb kthim.<\/p>\n

Makina preu majtas. P\u00ebrpara na priste Nihori, Seriani e t\u00eb tjer\u00eb fshatra \u00e7ame q\u00eb nuk i pat\u00ebn shp\u00ebtuar dot genocidit grek. Pran\u00eb Paramithis\u00eb, nj\u00eb tabel\u00eb e vjet\u00ebruar sh\u00ebnonte n\u00eb greqisht e n\u00eb anglisht Spring of Aheron. Menj\u00ebher\u00eb m\u00eb erdh\u00ebn nd\u00ebr mend malet e Sulit. Portreti i Marko Ba\u00e7arit, trimit shqiptar, simbolit t\u00eb liris\u00eb q\u00eb dha aq shum\u00eb jo vet\u00ebm p\u00ebr Greqin\u00eb, por mbi t\u00eb gjitha q\u00eb i k\u00ebrkoi Ali Pash\u00ebs t\u00eb bashkohej me Bushatllinjt\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u00eb b\u00ebr\u00eb Shqip\u00ebrin\u00eb, m\u00eb shfaqet para syve i gjall\u00eb e i hijsh\u00ebm ashtu si\u00e7 qe vet\u00ebm ai. Karshi tabel\u00ebs ndodhej nj\u00eb stacion autobuzi ku priste e ulur nj\u00eb zonj\u00eb e thinjur. Q\u00ebndruam pran\u00eb saj p\u00ebr t\u00eb pyetur se k\u00eb udh\u00eb duhet t\u00eb merrnim p\u00ebr n\u00eb burimin e Aheronit, lumit mitik ku n\u00ebp\u00ebr shpellat e tij, n\u00eb \u201cIliad\u00ebn\u201d e famshme Homeri \u00e7on Odisen\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u00eb takuar n\u00ebn\u00ebn si dhe Agamemnonin, komandantin e ushtris\u00eb helene. Pasi m\u00eb kishte ngrohur disi komunikimi i shkurt\u00ebr n\u00eb shqip n\u00eb Minin\u00eb vendosa q\u00eb edhe k\u00ebsaj zonj\u00eb flok\u00ebbardh\u00eb t\u2019i flisja po n\u00eb shqip. Ju afrova dhe e p\u00ebrsh\u00ebndeta me plot respekt. Por, p\u00ebr \u00e7udi, pa\u00e7ka se fytyra e saj reagonte me fisnik\u00ebri, ajo grua nuk m\u2019u p\u00ebrgjigj n\u00eb shqip. P\u00ebr t\u00eb ruajtur mir\u00ebsin\u00eb, un\u00eb e falenderova p\u00ebr reagimin e saj dhe e urova p\u00ebr nj\u00eb jet\u00eb t\u00eb gjat\u00eb e t\u00eb lumtur. K\u00ebt\u00eb her\u00eb, gruaja e bardh\u00eb reagoi jo vet\u00ebm me mimik\u00eb, por vuri duart n\u00eb gjoks, b\u00ebri kryqin dhe falenderoi disa her\u00eb duke ulur dhe ngritur kok\u00ebn leht\u00eb. Syt\u00eb e saj m\u2019u pan\u00eb si t\u00eb l\u00ebng\u00ebzuar. N\u00eb fund, ajo b\u00ebri shenj\u00eb me dor\u00eb duke l\u00ebn\u00eb t\u00eb kuptoja se p\u00ebr n\u00eb burimin e Aheronit duhet t\u00eb mirrnim drejtimin e treguar prej saj. Krahun e djatht\u00eb.<\/p>\n

Por ne b\u00ebm\u00eb t\u00eb kund\u00ebrt\u00ebn. P\u00ebr t\u00eb hyr\u00eb n\u00eb Paramithi mor\u00ebn krahun e majt\u00eb. P\u00ebr \u00e7udi zemra nuk po m\u00eb b\u00ebnte t\u00eb zbrisja, t\u00eb shkelja n\u00eb tok\u00ebn apo asfaltin e saj. M\u00eb pati mb\u00ebrthyer ideja se sapo t\u00eb shkelja atje, k\u00ebpuc\u00ebt e mija do t\u00eb mbyteshin menj\u00ebher\u00eb nga gjaku. Kjo pasi n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb qytet krejt\u00ebsisht shqiptar, pik\u00ebrisht m\u00eb 27 qershor t\u00eb vitit 1944, ndaj \u00e7am\u00ebve mysliman\u00eb u krye nj\u00eb masak\u00ebr e papar\u00eb. Gjenerali i zi Napolon Zerva (siv\u00ebllai shpirt\u00ebror i Sllobodon Milloshe\u00e7it t\u00eb Serbis\u00eb), ende i pad\u00ebnuar p\u00ebr krime lufte nga gjykata e Hag\u00ebs, i instruktuar kriminalisht prej Athin\u00ebs zyrtare, brenda nj\u00eb dite e nj\u00eb nate shkoi n\u00eb thik\u00eb, vrau e preu barbarisht ofro 800 njer\u00ebz, pa marr\u00eb parasysh k\u00ebtu as mosh\u00ebn e as gjinin\u00eb e tyre. N\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb gjueti shtrigash, n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb Sh\u00ebn Bartolome t\u00eb ri, u arrit deri atje saq\u00eb t\u00eb nxirreshin prej barkut t\u00eb n\u00ebnave foshnjet e palindura e t\u00eb vareshin maj\u00eb bajonetave t\u00eb andart\u00ebve porsi hajmali krimi. P\u00ebr fat t\u00eb keq, n\u00eb Paramithi megjith\u00ebse b\u00ebnte vap\u00eb ndesh\u00ebm n\u00eb nj\u00eb klim\u00eb t\u00eb ftoht\u00eb. Askush nuk na foli n\u00eb shqip. Sa her\u00eb q\u00eb ndal\u00ebm makin\u00ebn dhe donim t\u00eb komunikonim me kalimtar\u00eb t\u00eb rastit, ata reagonin ashp\u00ebr duke th\u00ebn\u00eb se ishin grek\u00eb dhe jo shqiptar\u00eb. Ve\u00e7 n\u00eb t\u00eb dal\u00eb t\u00eb Paramithis\u00eb, pasi kishim par\u00eb edhe kull\u00ebn mbi 400 vje\u00e7are, tipike shqiptare e familjes s\u00eb njohur \u00e7ame t\u00eb Bollat\u00ebve, nd\u00ebr m\u00eb t\u00eb persekutuarat e qytetit, tek q\u00ebndruam n\u00eb nj\u00eb supermarket t\u00eb madh p\u00ebr t\u00eb bler\u00eb ca l\u00ebngje p\u00ebr t\u00eb shuar vap\u00ebn, rast\u00ebsisht poqa nj\u00eb minoritar grek nga Jorgocati i Gjirokastr\u00ebs. Kur e pyeta at\u00eb se p\u00ebrse paramithot\u00ebt nuk reagonin n\u00eb shqip, ai duke v\u00ebn\u00eb buz\u00ebn n\u00eb gaz u shpreh shkurt: \u201cHistoria ka b\u00ebr\u00eb pun\u00ebn e saj n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb vend, por krahas greqishtes t\u00eb gjith\u00eb banor\u00ebt e Paramithis\u00eb kur duan p\u00ebrdorin edhe shqipen\u201d.<\/p>\n

Trishtin historik e po aq edhe bashkohor t\u00eb Paramithis\u00eb e hodh\u00ebm, e tret\u00ebm n\u00eb ujrat e Aheronit t\u00eb famsh\u00ebm. N\u00eb Gliqi, rr\u00ebz\u00eb maleve t\u00eb Sulit nga ku buron edhe Lumi i zi si\u00e7 quhej ai nga \u00e7am\u00ebt arrit\u00ebm pasi lam\u00eb pas nj\u00eb s\u00ebr\u00eb fshatrash t\u00eb \u00c7am\u00ebris\u00eb qendrore. Pa harruar k\u00ebtu Logatin, Kuklin, Hojk\u00ebn, etj, do d\u00ebshiroja t\u00eb rrija ca m\u00eb gjat\u00eb tek Dhrahomija dhe Gardhiqi. Me to sh\u00ebnohet caku i fundit i shtrirjes s\u00eb elementit mysliman n\u00eb \u00c7am\u00ebri. Edhe n\u00eb k\u00ebto fshatra Zerva e shpuri gjakun deri n\u00eb gju. N\u00eb Dhrahomi u arrit deri atje saq\u00eb u pushkatua e t\u00ebra nj\u00eb familje prej 24 vet\u00ebsh. Madje yzmeqari grek therri me thik\u00eb n\u00eb gryk\u00eb t\u00eb zotin e tij, i cili prej disa vitesh i kishte mbajtur me buk\u00eb familjen. Sot n\u00eb Dhrahomi e Gardhiq nuk egziston as edhe nj\u00eb \u00e7am i vet\u00ebm mysliman. E sikur t\u00eb mos mjaftonte t\u00eb gjitha k\u00ebto, Gardhiqit i \u00ebsht\u00eb tjet\u00ebrsuar edhe emri. N\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb fshat paradoksi njeh pikun e tij. Gardhiqin, p\u00ebr nder t\u00eb Napoleon Zerv\u00ebs, kasapit t\u00eb \u00c7am\u00ebris\u00eb e quajn\u00eb Zervohor, pra fshat i Zerv\u00ebs. Cinizmi nuk njeh kufi.<\/p>\n

N\u00eb pik\u00ebn turistike t\u00eb Aheronit, ve\u00e7 pamjes madh\u00ebshtore q\u00eb falnin malet e Sulit si dhe kuajt larash me t\u00eb cil\u00ebt mund t\u00eb kal\u00ebroje si n\u00eb shekujt e shkuar m\u00eb ka mbetur n\u00eb mendje biseda me nj\u00eb vajz\u00eb t\u00eb re q\u00eb nuk duhet t\u2019i kishte mbushur t\u00eb pes\u00ebmb\u00ebdhjetat. Ishte nga Gliqia dhe quhej Kostandina. Kryente atje rolin e guid\u00ebs turistike. Kostandina nuk pranoi t\u00eb fliste shqip me mua. Por kur u mor\u00ebm vesh n\u00eb anglisht, ajo mes sinqeritetit rinor u shpreh se jo vet\u00ebm fshati i saj Gliqia, por e gjith\u00eb zona p\u00ebrreth e fliste n\u00eb sht\u00ebpi shqipen. E pik\u00ebrisht n\u00eb t\u00eb dal\u00eb t\u00eb Gliqis\u00eb, atje ku z\u00eb fill edhe fusha e Frarit me plot 22 fshatrat ortodoks\u00eb shqiptare do niste edhe befasimi yn\u00eb m\u00eb i madh. Kujtojm\u00eb se n\u00eb \u00e7amo-fshatrat, hanxhari zervist nuk pati arritur dot. Kjo pasi Megalaideja \u00e7do shqiptar ortodoks e ka konsideruar dhe vazhdon ta konsideroj\u00eb edhe sot e k\u00ebsaj dite si nj\u00eb grek!
\nPat\u00ebn l\u00ebn\u00eb n\u00eb t\u00eb djatht\u00eb fshatin Spathar dhe u gjend\u00ebm n\u00eb Morfat. N\u00eb mes t\u00eb udh\u00ebs rastis\u00ebm Ki\u00e7o Dhimitrin q\u00eb megjith\u00ebse ishte i shkuar n\u00eb mosh\u00eb mbahej p\u00ebr bukuri. Pa\u00e7ka se b\u00ebnte vap\u00eb, ai ecte p\u00ebr gjat\u00eb rrug\u00ebs s\u00eb fshatit me hapin e nj\u00eb gjasht\u00ebdhjet\u00eb vje\u00e7ari. I thash\u00eb Rexhepit ta mbante makin\u00ebn n\u00eb k\u00ebmb\u00ebt e tij. U p\u00ebrsh\u00ebndeta shqip me t\u00eb. M\u2019u p\u00ebrgjegj po shqip buzagaz. E folura e tij nuk dallonte nga e imja. Apo nuk ishte edhe hokatar i madh. Nj\u00eb \u00e7ast, pasi na tha se kishte tre djem dhe tet\u00eb ngon\u00ebr (nip\u00ebr e mbesa) u shpreh: Ne more djal\u00eb nj\u00eb sua jemi si k\u00ebtej e po ashtu edhe atej kufirit. Si t\u00eb thuash, nj\u00eb her\u00eb vate dashi nga ne e mbarsi delen tuaj e tjatr\u00ebn her\u00eb erdhi dashi juaj k\u00ebtej e mbarsi delen ton\u00eb. Ja kjo \u00ebsht\u00eb e gjith\u00eb meseleje. Nj\u00eb sua jemi more bir, nj\u00eb sua. Qesh\u00ebm, qesh\u00ebm v\u00ebrtet. Nd\u00ebrkoh\u00eb Rexhepi kishte dal\u00eb nga makina dhe me celularin e tij kishte filluar ta regjistronte bised\u00ebn ton\u00eb. N\u00eb \u00e7astin kur xha Ki\u00e7o po m\u00eb molloiste p\u00ebr fshatin, pran\u00eb nesh frenoi nj\u00eb zetor i ngarkuar plot e p\u00ebr plot me bar. Drejtuesi i mjetit na p\u00ebrsh\u00ebndeti po n\u00eb shqip. Ai nuk duhet t\u2019i kishte kap\u00ebrcyer t\u00eb dyzetat. M\u00eb erdhi e papritur. Ishte e para her\u00eb n\u00eb \u00c7am\u00ebri q\u00eb pa i p\u00ebrsh\u00ebndetur po na p\u00ebrsh\u00ebndesnin n\u00eb shqip. Aq shum\u00eb u befasova sa p\u00ebr pak sekonda m\u2019u duk vetja si n\u00eb Shqip\u00ebri. Por nuk ishte e th\u00ebn\u00eb q\u00eb ajo mrrekulli t\u00eb zgjaste shum\u00eb.
\n– Esht\u00eb im bir ai, im bir, – m\u00eb preu meditimin xha Ki\u00e7o q\u00eb shtoi. – Esht\u00eb i fundit. Me t\u00eb pleq\u00ebroj u.<\/p>\n

U njatjetuam me djalin e Ki\u00e7os duke uruar q\u00eb babai i tij si zotni i v\u00ebrtet\u00eb q\u00eb ishte duhet t\u00eb jetonte jo m\u00eb 100, por 100 e 20 vjet. Xha Ki\u00e7o ja dha s\u00ebrish gazit, kurse i biri hamolloqeshi leht\u00eb e duke ndezur zetorin u shpreh:
\n– Ah! Jo 120 vjet jo se jan\u00eb shum\u00eb e nuk ja dalim, nuk e mbajm\u00eb dot. Pastaj jua sjellim juve andej.<\/p>\n

Pas k\u00ebsaj duke porositur baban\u00eb q\u00eb t\u00eb kthehej shpejt n\u00eb sht\u00ebpi se b\u00ebnte vap\u00eb na p\u00ebrsh\u00ebndeti me dor\u00eb e u largua p\u00ebr n\u00eb pun\u00ebn e tij. Kurse xha Ki\u00e7o tha:
\n– I kam t\u00eb mir\u00eb djelt\u00eb u. V\u00ebrteta i kam t\u00eb mir\u00eb. Ky i fundit m\u00eb ka tri ngon\u00ebr (nip\u00ebr e mbesa), dy djem e nj\u00eb vash\u00ebs. Kurse dy m\u00eb t\u00eb m\u00ebdhenjt\u00eb kan\u00eb pes\u00eb gjithsej.
\n– T\u00eb t\u00eb rrojn\u00eb e ti kesh me jet\u00eb zotrote! – uruam n\u00eb nj\u00eb goj\u00eb si un\u00eb e Rexhepi e po ashtu edhe Mirela e Halideja nga brenda makin\u00ebs.<\/p>\n

Para se t\u00eb ndaheshim me xha Ki\u00e7on e pieta:
\n– Po Shqip\u00ebrin\u00eb a e doni ju more xha Ki\u00e7o?
\n– Po si nuk e duam, – p\u00ebrs\u00ebriti ai duke shtuar. \u2013 T\u00eb thash\u00eb edhe qeparazi. Ne nj\u00eb jemi si k\u00ebtej e po ashtu edhe andej kufirit\u2026<\/p>\n

Po m\u00eb emociononte ky njeri. Me Ki\u00e7o Dhimitrin u ndava duke u p\u00ebrqafur v\u00ebllaz\u00ebrisht. Natyrisht e urova edhe nj\u00eb her\u00eb me zem\u00ebr q\u00eb t\u00eb jetonte jo 100, por 100 e 20 vje\u00e7.
\nAtij i ndrin\u00eb syt\u00eb e kalt\u00ebr dhe pasi drodhi nj\u00eb her\u00eb mustaqet e bardha na p\u00ebrsh\u00ebndeti miq\u00ebsisht me dor\u00eb. N\u00eb t\u00eb dal\u00eb t\u00eb Morfatit, vum\u00eb re se an\u00ebs udh\u00ebs, dy klube qen\u00eb mbushur plot me burra n\u00eb mosh\u00ebn e xha Ki\u00e7os q\u00eb pinin kafe e llafoseshin me nj\u00ebri tjatrin nj\u00ebsoj si n\u00eb Shqip\u00ebri. M\u00eb ng\u00ebrtheu p\u00ebrs\u00ebri meditimi. Dy tri dit\u00eb m\u00eb par\u00eb, Kristo Frash\u00ebri, historiani yn\u00eb i shquar kishte polimizuar rrept\u00eb me Elefteria Mandian, nj\u00eb t\u00eb ashtuquajtur historin\u00eb greke q\u00eb merrej me Cam\u00ebrin\u00eb. Librin e saj p\u00ebr \u00e7am\u00ebt mysliman\u00eb e pata lexuar edhe un\u00eb para pak kohe. N\u00eb sh\u00ebnimet e saj ajo e kishte nxir\u00eb historin\u00eb e tyre. Nd\u00ebrkoh\u00eb q\u00eb Napoleon Zerv\u00ebn e nxirrte gati hero, \u00e7am\u00ebrit i shihte si kriminel\u00eb. Mir\u00eb q\u00eb nuk kishte cil\u00ebsuar si t\u00eb till\u00eb, si bashk\u00ebpun\u00ebtor\u00eb t\u00eb italian\u00ebve dhe gjerman\u00ebve dhe pleqt\u00eb ulok\u00eb si dhe foshnjet q\u00eb kaluan kufirin shqiptaro-shqiptar n\u00eb ver\u00ebn e vitin 1944 n\u00ebp\u00ebr djepe! Nd\u00ebrsa p\u00ebr \u00e7am\u00ebt ortodoks\u00eb t\u00eb Frarit e t\u00eb gjith\u00eb \u00c7am\u00ebris\u00eb nga Filati e deri n\u00eb Prevez\u00eb ajo nuk thoshte as edhe nj\u00eb fjal\u00eb e vetme. P\u00ebr yzmeqar\u00ebt apo yzmeqaret e reja t\u00eb Megalaides\u00eb, elementi shqiptar ortodoks, pa\u00e7ka se dominon fuqish\u00ebm n\u00eb t\u00eb gjith\u00eb \u00c7am\u00ebrin\u00eb nuk duhet t\u00eb b\u00ebhet fjal\u00eb, nuk duhet t\u00eb shkruhet as edhe nj\u00eb rrjesht! P\u00ebrkundrazi, p\u00ebr t\u00eb nuk duhet t\u00eb ket\u00eb asnj\u00eb shenj\u00eb, madje ai nuk duhet t\u00eb egzistoj\u00eb e t\u00eb njihet kurrsesi. P\u00ebr t\u00eb nuk duhet t\u00eb ket\u00eb as shkolla n\u00eb gjuh\u00ebn shqipe, as gazeta e as radio amtare! Kjo shtres\u00eb popullsie duhet t\u00eb mbahet e fshehur, e padukshme deri n\u00eb asimilimin e saj t\u00eb plot\u00eb. Nd\u00ebrkoh\u00eb q\u00eb n\u00ebp\u00ebr fshatrat e minoritetit grek n\u00eb Shqip\u00ebri dhe p\u00ebr nj\u00eb f\u00ebmij\u00eb t\u00eb vet\u00ebm tundet Europa, pasi ai duhet t\u00eb ket\u00eb patjet\u00ebr nj\u00eb m\u00ebsues mbi kok\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u00eb m\u00ebsuar greqishten!<\/p>\n

P\u00ebr n\u00eb Parg\u00eb na duhej t\u2019i shmangeshim fush\u00ebs s\u00eb Frarit dhe t\u00eb mirrnim t\u00eb p\u00ebrpjet\u00ebn q\u00eb t\u00eb shpinte drejt detit. P\u00ebr fat t\u00eb keq shmang\u00ebm edhe fshatin e madh t\u00eb Kanalit, ku si n\u00eb Morfat e gjetiu n\u00eb fush\u00ebn e Frarit mbi t\u00eb gjitha flitej shqip. K\u00ebt\u00eb e kisha p\u00ebrjetuar vet\u00eb 15 vite t\u00eb shkuara, kur n\u00eb nj\u00eb klub nj\u00eb djalosh i ri, pa v\u00ebn\u00eb ende brisk n\u00eb faqe m\u00eb kishte sh\u00ebrbyer nj\u00eb kafe duke m\u00eb folur vet\u00ebm shqip. Ve\u00e7 pika kulmante e udh\u00ebtimit ton\u00eb do mbetet fshati Psak\u00eb fill pas Morfatit. Tek ula dritaren i fola gjene nj\u00eb t\u00eb moshuare. E pyeta sa koh\u00eb na duhej p\u00ebr t\u00eb arritur n\u00eb Parg\u00eb. Por ajo nuk reagoi. Po m\u00eb p\u00ebrs\u00ebritej gjene rasti i stacionit t\u00eb autobuzit pran\u00eb Paramithis\u00eb, kur nj\u00eb zonj\u00eb sado q\u00eb reagonte me plot mir\u00ebsi nuk po m\u00eb p\u00ebrgjigjej n\u00eb shqip. Prej syve, prej v\u00ebshtrimit t\u00eb saj e ndjeja se ajo e fliste shqipen, por nuk donte t\u00eb shprehej. U detyrova t\u2019i lija menjan\u00eb pyetjet rreth udh\u00ebs q\u00eb do na shpinte n\u00eb Parg\u00eb dhe u p\u00ebrpoqa t\u00eb b\u00ebhesha m\u00eb i af\u00ebrt me t\u00eb. E pyeta se sa bil\u00eb e bila kishte e po ashtu edhe me sa ngon\u00ebr qe. K\u00ebtu e moshuara nuk u mbajt m\u00eb dhe shp\u00ebrtheu n\u00eb nj\u00eb shqipe t\u00eb past\u00ebr duke na habitur t\u00eb gjith\u00ebve e duke m\u00eb treguar se kishte dy vash\u00ebza dhe gjasht\u00eb ngon\u00ebr. Kur e pyeta p\u00ebr t\u00eb shoqin m\u00eb tha se nuk jetonte m\u00eb. E ngush\u00ebllova duke i uruar q\u00eb ajo vet\u00eb t\u00eb kishte nj\u00eb jet\u00eb t\u00eb gjat\u00eb e t\u00eb lumtur. Vura re se u g\u00ebzua. M\u00eb falenderoi buzagaz. Kur u ndam\u00eb edhe ajo m\u00eb uroi mua si dhe familjen time. I lumturuar prej k\u00ebtij komunikimi zgjata duart jasht\u00eb dhe e ftova t\u00eb moshuar\u00ebn ta p\u00ebrqafoja, ta nagalasja. Ajo shp\u00ebrtheu n\u00eb t\u00eb qeshura duke u t\u00ebrhequr si e turp\u00ebruar pas. Qesha edhe un\u00eb. Qesh\u00ebn t\u00eb gjith\u00eb me shpirt n\u00eb makin\u00eb. Pas k\u00ebsaj b\u00ebm\u00eb drejt Parg\u00ebs.<\/p>\n

Megjith\u00ebs\u00eb e kisha par\u00eb edhe tjet\u00ebr her\u00eb, Parga k\u00ebt\u00eb rrall\u00eb nuk m\u00eb t\u00ebrhoqi, nuk m\u00eb p\u00eblqeu dhe aq. M\u2019u duk e mbledhur, e ngjeshur, me rrug\u00eb tep\u00ebr t\u00eb ngushta, ku n\u00ebse do gaboje me makin\u00eb, do e kishe tep\u00ebr t\u00eb v\u00ebshtir\u00eb p\u00ebr t\u00eb gjetur nj\u00eb udh\u00eb t\u00eb lir\u00eb, apo p\u00ebr t\u2019u kthyer prapa. Pastaj edhe kalaja k\u00ebt\u00eb her\u00eb m\u2019u duk m\u00eb e r\u00ebnuar, e pa mir\u00ebmbajtur. Ndoshta kjo ndjesi m\u00eb vinte p\u00ebr shkak t\u00eb nj\u00eb shije t\u00eb hidhur q\u00eb m\u00eb pat\u00ebn l\u00ebn\u00eb n\u00eb shpirt muret e saj. N\u00eb at\u00eb kala, p\u00ebrgjat\u00eb genocidit zervist jan\u00eb vrar\u00eb e prer\u00eb afro 50 \u00e7am\u00eb q\u00eb pasi pushkatoheshin hidheshin prej mureve n\u00eb det. Ndofta kjo ndjesi ftohje ndaj Parg\u00ebs m\u00eb vinte edhe nga fakti se dy dit\u00eb m\u00eb par\u00eb kisha q\u00ebn\u00eb n\u00eb Ulqin, n\u00eb panairini 15-t\u00eb librit q\u00eb mbahet \u00e7do fund korriku dhe fillim gushti atje. N\u00eb krahasim me Parg\u00ebn, Ulqini p\u00ebr mua mbetet nj\u00eb qytet i adhuruar. Kjo jo vet\u00ebm sepse n\u00eb t\u00eb shqipja buis kudo, por sepse ka hap\u00ebsir\u00eb e frym\u00ebmarrje m\u00eb t\u00eb gj\u00ebr\u00eb. Pa p\u00ebrmendur pastaj k\u00ebtu kalan\u00eb e qytetit. Ajo mbetet nd\u00ebr k\u00ebshtjellat e banuara m\u00eb t\u00ebrheq\u00ebse n\u00eb t\u00eb gjith\u00eb Ballkanin e m\u00eb gjer\u00eb. N\u00eb Parg\u00eb m\u00eb t\u00ebrhoqi v\u00ebmendjen edhe di\u00e7ka tjet\u00ebr. Kur po drekonim n\u00eb nj\u00eb restorant modern n\u00eb periferi t\u00eb saj, ve\u00e7 \u00e7mimeve tep\u00ebr t\u00eb kripura m\u00eb b\u00ebri p\u00ebrshtypje kjo gj\u00eb. N\u00eb nj\u00eb gji deti posht\u00eb nesh (i bukur) soditja v\u00ebmendsh\u00ebm dhe mezi po arrija t\u00eb shquaja dy apo tri koka njerzish q\u00eb notonin n\u00eb det. Bregu i r\u00ebr\u00ebs gjithashtu qe i boshatisur. Nd\u00ebrkoh\u00eb q\u00eb plazhet e Ulqinit apo t\u00eb Shqip\u00ebris\u00eb nuk kan\u00eb vend ku mund t\u00eb hedh\u00ebsh as kokrr\u00ebn e moll\u00ebs. Me siguri kjo gjendje n\u00eb plazhet e \u00c7am\u00ebris\u00eb mbetet tregues tipik i kriz\u00ebs s\u00eb r\u00ebnd\u00eb q\u00eb ka perfshir\u00eb jo vet\u00ebm ekonomin\u00eb, por edhe turizmin e Greqis\u00eb.<\/p>\n

Nuk kishim b\u00ebr\u00eb as gjysm\u00ebn e rrug\u00ebs p\u00ebr drejt Prevez\u00ebs, kur buz\u00eb udh\u00ebs q\u00eb t\u00eb shpinte n\u00eb fshatrat shqiptare t\u00eb Luc\u00ebs do na ndodhte nj\u00eb tjet\u00ebr e papritur. Nga trotuari na pret udh\u00ebn e na b\u00ebn shenj\u00eb q\u00eb t\u00eb ndalonim nj\u00eb burr\u00eb shtatshkurt\u00ebr, i plot\u00eb, i thinjur q\u00eb me nj\u00eb shqipe t\u00eb past\u00ebr pyet:
\n– Mos jeni ju ata kat\u00ebr djemt\u00eb shqiptar\u00eb q\u00eb do t\u00eb vini e t\u00eb pushoni n\u00eb tavern\u00ebn time?<\/p>\n

Ne mbet\u00ebm t\u00eb habitur. Por edhe njeriut n\u00eb fjal\u00eb sikur i ra, ju pre entuziazmi. Ne v\u00ebrtet ishim kat\u00ebr persona n\u00eb makin\u00eb, por asnj\u00ebri prej nesh nuk ishte m\u00eb djalosh i ri e aq m\u00eb tep\u00ebr q\u00eb me vete ne kishim edhe zonjat tona. Sidoqoft\u00eb, i panjohuri yn\u00eb nuk e l\u00ebshoi vehten, por t\u00ebr gjall\u00ebri u shpreh se ishte xhaxhai i Pirro Dhim\u00ebs nga Himara. Ne q\u00eb t\u00eb kat\u00ebrt n\u00eb makin\u00eb mbet\u00ebm. Nuk ka shqiptar\u00eb n\u00eb planet q\u00eb t\u00eb mos njoh\u00eb gjakprishurin Pirro Dhima. At\u00eb e rriti m\u00ebma Shqip\u00ebri dhe frytet si kampion bote n\u00eb pesh\u00ebngritje ja voli Greqia. P\u00ebr here t\u00eb par\u00eb nuk m\u00eb b\u00ebn\u00eb k\u00ebmb\u00ebt t\u00eb dilja nga makina. I b\u00ebra shenj\u00eb Rexhepit p\u00ebr t\u00eb ndezur makin\u00ebn dhe si p\u00ebr t\u00eb mos dalur bosh me t\u00eb e pyeta. T\u00eb gjitha fshatrat fqinje t\u00eb Luc\u00ebs e flasin shqipen nj\u00ebsoj si ju?
\n– Po, po. Po, po \u2013 p\u00ebrs\u00ebriti dy her\u00eb xhaxhai i buk\u00ebshkalit Pirro Dhima q\u00eb duke mos na i v\u00ebn\u00eb m\u00eb veshin ne u shmang n\u00eb trotuar duke ndjekur \u00e7do makin\u00eb e duke i b\u00ebr\u00eb syt\u00eb kat\u00ebr p\u00ebr t\u00eb pikasur kat\u00ebr djemt\u00eb shqiptar\u00eb q\u00eb priste t\u00eb vinin p\u00ebr t\u00eb pushuar n\u00eb tavern\u00ebn e tij.<\/p>\n

N\u00eb Prevez\u00eb arrit\u00ebm pasdreke. Por nuk q\u00ebndruam gjat\u00eb. I rram\u00eb qark qytetit duke q\u00ebndruar m\u00eb shum\u00eb tek kalaja e saj. Ndryshe nga ajo e Parg\u00ebs ishte v\u00ebrtet e bukur, me mure t\u00eb lart\u00eb dhe t\u00eb ruajtur mir\u00eb. Edhe n\u00eb Prevez\u00eb, elementi ortodoks shqiptar, i cili edhe sot e k\u00ebsaj dite e dominon qytetin i ka shp\u00ebtuar hanxharit t\u00eb Napolon Zerv\u00ebs. Lagjen e Kallamishtes, q\u00eb banohet krejt\u00ebsisht nga shqiptar\u00ebt e kaluam me marsh t\u00eb ul\u00ebt. Ve\u00e7se edhe bregdeti i shtrir\u00eb i Prevez\u00ebs u shfaq pothuajse i zbraz\u00ebt nga turist\u00ebt. Monotonia e k\u00ebsaj l\u00ebvizje na u daravit gjat\u00eb vizit\u00ebs q\u00eb b\u00ebm\u00eb n\u00eb qytetitn antik t\u00eb Nikopoj\u00ebs. U habita, u befasova me t\u00eb. Mure t\u00eb till\u00eb t\u00eb lart\u00eb e t\u00eb gjer\u00eb nuk kisha par\u00eb asnj\u00ebher\u00eb. Mbi dhjet\u00eb metrosh\u00ebr. Qen\u00eb me t\u00eb v\u00ebrtet\u00eb madh\u00ebshtor\u00eb. Nd\u00ebrkoh\u00eb, kur morr\u00ebm rrug\u00eb drejt Janin\u00ebs p\u00ebr t\u00eb vizituar Dodon\u00ebn mitike mbet\u00ebm p\u00ebrs\u00ebri goj\u00eb hapur. Karshi nesh, n\u00eb faqen ballore t\u00eb nj\u00eb kodrine na u shfaq amfiteatri i Nikopoj\u00ebs. \u00c7far\u00eb mund t\u00eb thoja p\u00ebr t\u00eb? \u00c7far\u00eb mund t\u00eb shtoja tjet\u00ebr?! Natyrisht, p\u00ebr nga fama dhe r\u00ebnd\u00ebsia, ai s\u2019mund t\u00eb krahasohet me amfiteatrin e Dodon\u00ebs. Por p\u00ebr vet\u00eb pozicionin q\u00eb kishte, p\u00ebr lart\u00ebsin\u00eb, bardh\u00ebsin\u00eb, hijeshin e tij t\u00eb ve\u00e7ant\u00eb, amfiteatri i Nikopoj\u00ebs n\u00eb goditjen e tij t\u00eb par\u00eb t\u00eb jipte iden\u00eb, t\u00eb b\u00ebnte t\u00eb p\u00ebrjetoj\u00eb p\u00ebr pak \u00e7aste at\u00eb bot\u00eb magjike e t\u00eb pakthyeshme t\u00eb antikitetit t\u00eb art\u00eb.<\/p>\n

N\u00eb Dodon\u00eb, rr\u00ebz\u00eb malit Tomorros, emri i t\u00eb cilit gjen zb\u00ebrthim vet\u00ebm mes gjuh\u00ebs shqipe (t\u00eb mir\u00ebt, t\u00eb urt\u00ebt) u p\u00ebrhumba, u mahnita krejt. E ndjeja thell\u00eb n\u00eb shpirt, e ndjeja n\u00eb \u00e7do qeliz\u00eb t\u00eb trupit se n\u00eb k\u00ebt\u00eb vend t\u00eb shenjt\u00eb ndodhej vet\u00eb tharmi i popullit tim. Un\u00eb dija, e kisha m\u00ebsuar qysh n\u00eb rini prej babait tim Sejdi Kondit, se n\u00eb Dodon\u00ebn Pellazgjike, n\u00eb djepin e par\u00eb t\u00eb qytet\u00ebrimit, n\u00eb t\u00eb parin vend t\u00eb shenjt\u00eb t\u00eb njer\u00ebzimit, ku orakulli la porosi q\u00eb t\u00eb ngrihej tempulli i Zeusit gjendeshin rr\u00ebnj\u00ebt e thella, mij\u00ebra vje\u00e7are, parahelene t\u00eb popullit tim. Hyjnit\u00eb q\u00eb nderoheshin mbeteshin dielli, qielli, toka, uji. Jo m\u00eb kot shqiptar\u00ebt edhe sot e k\u00ebaj dite, nj\u00ebsoj si t\u00eb par\u00ebt e tyre vazhdojn\u00eb t\u00eb betohen si n\u00eb koh\u00ebt pagane me shprehje t\u00eb tilla si \u201cp\u00ebr tok\u00eb e p\u00ebr qiell\u201d, \u201cp\u00ebr h\u00ebn\u00eb e p\u00ebr diell\u201d, etj, etj. U larguan nga Dodona duke marr\u00eb me vete me dhjetra e qindra fotografi t\u00eb b\u00ebra sa para amfiteatrit vigan, sa para tempullin t\u00eb shenjt\u00eb t\u00eb Zeusit fuqiplot\u00eb, sa para tempullit t\u00eb Af\u00ebrdit\u00ebs, para stadiumit. Rikthimi n\u00eb \u00c7am\u00ebri mbetet i mrekulluesh\u00ebm. Ju lut\u00ebm p\u00ebr k\u00ebt\u00eb dhe tempullit t\u00eb Zeusit. \/Bota Sot\/<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Vizit\u00eb n\u00eb \u00c7am\u00ebri (Atje ku shqipja nuk shuhet kurr\u00eb) Shkruan Arben Kondi Jav\u00ebn e shkuar, nj\u00eb telefonat\u00eb-ftes\u00eb nga Saranda prej Halides e Rexhepit, miqve tan\u00eb nga Gostivari, q\u00eb pushonin brigjeve t\u00eb Jonit b\u00ebri q\u00eb pas plot 15 vitesh t\u00eb rikthehesha tok me gruan time Mirel\u00ebn n\u00eb \u00c7am\u00ebrin\u00eb martire. Vizita e par\u00eb qe arkivuar dhimbsh\u00ebm n\u00eb […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5110,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_seopress_robots_primary_cat":"","_seopress_titles_title":"","_seopress_titles_desc":"","_seopress_robots_index":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5109","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-kronike"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5109","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=5109"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5109\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":5115,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/5109\/revisions\/5115"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/5110"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=5109"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=5109"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/ulqini-online.com\/sajti\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=5109"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}